Under the spell of Boipeba´s charms

by Antonella Kann

Long time no see, you´ll say. And you´re right. I´ve been deep in travels, but very bad in posting something new since...well, you tell me. But during these trips I´ve visited places that you ought to go, either for a long vacation or short stay. One of those is Boipeba, very off the beaten track. It´s Bahia old-style in its true essence. You can fly from Salvador on a small plane from a tiny company called Addey ( reservas@addey.com.br ) which drops you off on that charming "airport" which you see on the first picture...

You then take a small canoe and jump off on a beach in central Boipeba. No cars, no motorized vehicles. The pousadas send a porter with a yellow wheelbarrow which will lift your luggage to your final destination. Best place to go is the Pousada Mangabeiras (www.pousadamangabeiras.com.br) , fabulous location on the top of a hill with eye-filling views. Check it out from the picture above. All of the rooms from cozy bungalows have this privilege. Note that you have to climb over 70 steps to reach your kingsize bed...

Sunshine, a good book and your favorite companion with you - this is basically the recipe if you want a perfect place. But if you are not the sort of person who slips from the room straight into a lounge chair by the pool, then try walking miles and miles around the island ( yes, you´ve guessed, Boipeba is an island) and discover unspoilt beaches, calm and pristine waters and, at low tide, natural pools.

Being miles from anywhere of consequences, framed by a picturesque landscape, Boipeba harbors the atmosphere of old-style Bahia. Relaxed, and affordable -chic. Try to go off-season and do not stay less than 3 nights. Ah, indulge in a fantastic massage with the therapist recommended in Pousada Mangabeiras´front desk. I did forget her name, but I remember that she is a very sweet American lady and you will be in heaven for an hour - I promise!

Late afternoon, sunset time, go for a walk around the village, all sand alleys, fishermen´s atrium, some tourists - lots of backpackers heading for smaller pousadas which used to be locals´home.

Although Boipeba is googleable by now, it still is that divine laidback sort of place.