My favourite Trancoso hotel: Jacaré do Brasil Casas

I said it above and repeat it here: there's no better place to stay in Trancoso than the mini-hotel Jacaré do Brasil casas, which opened in December 2007. Some would disagree, of course. What about the famous Estrela d'Água? What about the new Club Med?"

Well, the best hotel for me might not be the best hotel for the next person. I happen to love being near the action. Which means I like to stay at or right off the Quadrado. Both Estrela d'Água and Club Med are quite far, and you'll need to rent a car or catch a lot of taxis if you want to go out to dinner. Club Med isn't even considered Trancoso, but rather, falls within the territory of the next town to the North, called Arraial d'Ajuda. Thanks, but no thanks.

I'd MUCH rather be by the Quadrado. I love its unique vibe, its candy-coloured houses, the late afternoon soccer matches, the modest little church framed by the sea below...

Jacaré do Brasil casas has an unbeatable location, right next to the church, with amazing sea views. It's made up of only five "casas", and number 5, with the largest deck and best view, is the top pick.

Designer-to-the-stars Sig Bergamin did the décor and hit bullseye. Reclaimed palm trunks were turned into tiles which double as headboards, lamps are made of local wicker, and, throughout, flooring is a simple yet beautiful okre-tinted cement, waxed to a smooth sheen.

Owner is Fernando Droghetti (a.k.a. Jacaré), who recently left São Paulo to run the pousada full-time. ,

Each casa has its own kitchen, where a maid will prepare the guest's breakfast.

The only non-rustic touches are the must-have flatscreen TVs and portable phones that double as cells.

Jacaré do Brasil Casas: Quadrado, Trancoso, tel. (55-73) 3668-1470, reservas@jacaredobrasil.com.br