São Luis do Maranhão, capital of hand painted tiles.

by Antonella Kann

São Luis, in the far northeast, has less than one million inhabitants and is the only city in Brazil which was founded by the French in 1612. A couple of decades later the Dutch invaded it. But, as far as construction is concerned, the capital of Maranhão was completely built by the Portuguese.

Located on a island, the only place really worth visiting is its old town, where you can stroll for hours among more than 5 thousand colonial sites which date from the 17th and 19th centuries.

Bear in mind that São Luis has the largest collection in the whole of Latin America of ancient hand painted Portuguese tiles , spread along the colonial façades in the old quarter.

You are unlikely to be bored because the narrow streets are lively, people are friendly and there is lots of tourist shops with attractive and colorful artifacts. And on the sidewalks you´ll find stalls selling fruits, coconut water, and local food, like fried fish. A tip: don´t miss the market.

Luckily, it´s quite safe to walk with your camera and just act like a tourist...But just beware late at night and off-bounderies of the old town. Though São Luis is not a foodie destination, try the shrimp pie, a regional specialty.

The city is also framed by beautiful beaches, like Calhau, Olho d´Àgua and Ponta d `Areia. And the temperature is warm year –round. If you have time, book a tour on a catamaran to visit the former capital, Alcantara. It´s a mere half-day trip and you´ll enjoy the sites as well as the sailing.

After a rain shower, the lights are fantastic.

A sundowner to watch the sunset is worthwhile. But the best restaurants will be in the new parts of town.

the sunset in São Luis. No comment.

But try to plan your visit on your way to Lençois Maranhenses, one of the main attractions of the state of Maranhão. But I will write about this magical desert on a later stage.

Pantanal, a world for animal lovers

by Antonella Kann

Are you filled with patience and a good zoom? Because these are the only things humans are supposed to bring to the Pantanal, the land of the blue araras, the crocodiles, many species of monkeys, and birds with strange names, like tuiuiús.

These wild animals belong to one of the most protected environment in Brazil but you can easily spot them at certain moments of sunset and dawn… and even sometimes out of the blue moon.

The Pantanal region offers a unique opportunity for animal lovers. Although there´s a range of places to choose from, one of the easiest to reach is the Transpantaneira, located very close to Cuiabá´s airport, in the State of Mato Grosso.

Actually, the Transpantaneira (below) is a straight ( yes, no curves!) 196 kilometers dirt road, which begins in Poconé and finishes in Porto Jofre.

On the way, there are a few pousadas, but the best is Pousada Araras Eco Lodge, at km 28,5.

The pousada belongs to a close friend of mine, Hungarian André Von Thuronyi, and his charming wife, Akhila, who comes from Slovenia. They are an adorable couple who will make your stay a memorable one. And I am not saying this for a personal reason, but because their hospitality reflects the dedication they have to nature since they have settled there more than 20 years ago.

The first thing that you learn is that in the Pantanal there´s only one rule, the animal´s. That´s why you´ll end up getting used to wake up at 5 in the morning, because no wildlife sleeps after sunrise.

So if you want to enjoy everything the Pantanal has, you can ride, walk, bike and even sleep in a hammock, the pantaneiro way. But this is something you´ll have to settle with André, because it´s a special experience reserved to special visitors.

 you can ride in the bush for hours