São Luis do Maranhão, capital of hand painted tiles.

by Antonella Kann

São Luis, in the far northeast, has less than one million inhabitants and is the only city in Brazil which was founded by the French in 1612. A couple of decades later the Dutch invaded it. But, as far as construction is concerned, the capital of Maranhão was completely built by the Portuguese.

Located on a island, the only place really worth visiting is its old town, where you can stroll for hours among more than 5 thousand colonial sites which date from the 17th and 19th centuries.

Bear in mind that São Luis has the largest collection in the whole of Latin America of ancient hand painted Portuguese tiles , spread along the colonial façades in the old quarter.

You are unlikely to be bored because the narrow streets are lively, people are friendly and there is lots of tourist shops with attractive and colorful artifacts. And on the sidewalks you´ll find stalls selling fruits, coconut water, and local food, like fried fish. A tip: don´t miss the market.

Luckily, it´s quite safe to walk with your camera and just act like a tourist...But just beware late at night and off-bounderies of the old town. Though São Luis is not a foodie destination, try the shrimp pie, a regional specialty.

The city is also framed by beautiful beaches, like Calhau, Olho d´Àgua and Ponta d `Areia. And the temperature is warm year –round. If you have time, book a tour on a catamaran to visit the former capital, Alcantara. It´s a mere half-day trip and you´ll enjoy the sites as well as the sailing.

After a rain shower, the lights are fantastic.

A sundowner to watch the sunset is worthwhile. But the best restaurants will be in the new parts of town.

the sunset in São Luis. No comment.

But try to plan your visit on your way to Lençois Maranhenses, one of the main attractions of the state of Maranhão. But I will write about this magical desert on a later stage.

Rio 360º: amazing panoramic images by... the Russians!

by Antonella Kann

I usually delete any forwarded emails which seem fishy. They don't usually attract my attention unless they seem to be for a good cause.

Eventually, there are a few exceptions. One of them is when it's something to do with Rio de Janeiro in the past.

That's why I end up gazing at gorgeous b&w pics dating from decades ago, when Rio was really different from today.

But the city hasn't lost its magic. Even the landmarks, (some of which have unfortunately been erased from the map) are well-known by photographers, painters and moviemakers.

Now, when I received this fwd to show how the Russian eye views our town, I was curious:

But as I navigated the pano, I was amazed. Seen from the air, in such original bird's eye.

Check it out, it's worth it. Rio will always be iconic. And this little movie proves that it will always be possible to watch it from numerous points of view.

Here is the link - enjoy! and don't forget to click on the small dots on the right hand side to get the full effect and really have fun!

Charming Paraty under the rain: a reflection of colonial time

by Antonella Kann

There are a few spots in the world which remain unspoilt even when it rains. The bad news is that there aren´t many. But luckily for us, Paraty is one of those places where even when hit by the bad weather ( quite often, I must add) it never looses its charismatic beauty.

This colonial town, built by the Portuguese in the 16th century , is a World Heritage site and all of its buildings remain intact. Paraty is a piece of art framed by the lush vegetation of the Mata Atlantica. Located less than three hours by car from Rio, it´s easily reached on the Rio-Santos highway. But make sure you leave before three in the afternoon or you´ll be stuck for ages in heavy traffic.

For the last couple of years, every time I set foot in this romantic town it was pouring. The last time was at my son´s wedding, who, like many young couples, had chosen Paraty to celebrate D Day. But even under such circumstances, the event was a success.

Photographers never get tired of browsing the labyrinth of streets and alleys which usually lead to a church or a praça (square). You can easily get lost, but not for long. The sea and the port, as well as the Praça da Matriz, are your references and if you are surprised by a sudden shower, you can always retire into a bar, and have a few glasses of cachaça, the speciality of Paraty.

The beauty of its architecture with colourful facades are only one of the many attributes that attract thousands of visitors year-round. Besides strolling on the cobbled-stoned pedestrian-only alleys, you may splurge your time between eating and shopping. The restaurant Banana da Terra is one of the traditional establishments and although the food is simple, think fresh fish and regional condiments. The leading ingredient is, of course, banana. Salty and in sweets, too.

There are a range of excellent restaurants and accommodation from the simple bed & breakfast to top five stars pousadas, like the Casa Turquesa www.casaturquesa.com.br where guests are surprised by the superb suites overlooking a quiet inner garden. Of course, these regal choices don´t come out cheap, but Paraty itself is not only for savvy travellers. Another very hospitable and much more affordable place to stay is Pousada Arte Urquijo www.urquijo.com.br where rooms are cozy and you feel at home.

Suddenly, when Paraty is as wet as it can be, it seems like a ghost town. And even though, it´s beautiful. The Serra da Bocaina, above and around, is stunning. The sea, framing the port and all the fishing boats, is also a magic sight.

Last, but not least: every Saturday there is a very typical puppet theatre, called Contadores de Histórias ( Story Tellers), at the Espaço Cultural Paraty. This is not to be missed. You´ll never see something similar anywhere else. Make a booking beforehand and enjoy your experience. Even if it rains…

there are hundreds of labels for the cachaça, so feel free to browse - and try!

New Tivoli Mofarrej hotel in São Paulo: candid photos

 



São Paulo is a far cry from New York in terms of hotel openings: five stars are hard to come by... So it was quite exciting to welcome last year to the short list of luxury hotels the hotel Tivoli Mofarrej. The place isn't exactly new (ex-Sheraton, ex-Meliá): but the new owners gave it a complete revamp. 

 

The lobby has soaring ceilings and plenty of glass...

.

My room was nice and boutiquey in style. Déja vu, but very comfortable.





It had a small reading area...


Here's the bedroom of one of their pricier corner suites:




If you go ask for a room facing Nove de Julho avenue: gorgeous views at night!

Room service food is surprisingly good...



Especially the burger:



Lovely chocolate treat given out at turn-down service:


The breakfast buffet...




The ugly orange pool:



Don't miss the rooftop restaurant, Arola Vintetres – it's been getting great reviews.

And before booking, make sure to compare the rates on their official website and the ones quoted on the site of the Leading Hotels of the World association.
Last time I checked, Leading offered a lower rate...

Tivoli São Paulo – Mofarrej
Alameda Santos, 1437
Jardins
Tel: (55) 11 3146 5900
Email: reservas.htsp@tivolihotels.com

Pantanal, a world for animal lovers

by Antonella Kann

Are you filled with patience and a good zoom? Because these are the only things humans are supposed to bring to the Pantanal, the land of the blue araras, the crocodiles, many species of monkeys, and birds with strange names, like tuiuiús.

These wild animals belong to one of the most protected environment in Brazil but you can easily spot them at certain moments of sunset and dawn… and even sometimes out of the blue moon.

The Pantanal region offers a unique opportunity for animal lovers. Although there´s a range of places to choose from, one of the easiest to reach is the Transpantaneira, located very close to Cuiabá´s airport, in the State of Mato Grosso.

Actually, the Transpantaneira (below) is a straight ( yes, no curves!) 196 kilometers dirt road, which begins in Poconé and finishes in Porto Jofre.

On the way, there are a few pousadas, but the best is Pousada Araras Eco Lodge, at km 28,5.

The pousada belongs to a close friend of mine, Hungarian André Von Thuronyi, and his charming wife, Akhila, who comes from Slovenia. They are an adorable couple who will make your stay a memorable one. And I am not saying this for a personal reason, but because their hospitality reflects the dedication they have to nature since they have settled there more than 20 years ago.

The first thing that you learn is that in the Pantanal there´s only one rule, the animal´s. That´s why you´ll end up getting used to wake up at 5 in the morning, because no wildlife sleeps after sunrise.

So if you want to enjoy everything the Pantanal has, you can ride, walk, bike and even sleep in a hammock, the pantaneiro way. But this is something you´ll have to settle with André, because it´s a special experience reserved to special visitors.

 you can ride in the bush for hours

Acclaimed directors Fernando Meirelles and José Padilha behind upcoming "Rio, I Love You" film

French producer Emmanuel Benhiby created a series of films that are veritable love letters to the cities where they're set. After ‘Paris, Je t’aime’ (starring Juliette Binoche and Natalie Portman, among others) and New York, I Love You, the next in the series will be Shanghai, I love You, and Rio, eu te Amo (Rio, I love You), set to be released next year.

Rio, eu te Amo will be directed by Fernando Meirelles (City of God, The Constant Gardener) and José Padilha (Bus 174, Tropa de Elite). The film is far from ready bu already has a very cool website featuring declarations of love to the city by citizens from all walks of life, check it out by clicking on this link.

According to the film's Facebook page, the scenes will be shot mainly in ten spots around the city. It will be a collective work by three Brazilian directors (Meirelles, Padilha and a third), three Americans and another four directors from other countries.

The cast will also be international.

Wallpaper launches Brazil edition with big party in New York

Wallpaper* decided to do a whole edition on Brazil. June's Born in Brazil issue with a
big party in New York at Tribeca's Espasso, a design furniture store owned by Brazilian Carlos Junqueira (the event was co-hosted by Shopping Iguatemi's CEO, Carlos Jereissati).

Here are a couple of photos of the party, courtesy of  Scott Mitchem,  Wallpaper's man for all things Rio, showing cover girl Ana Beatriz (right) and pal Alessandra "VS Angel" Ambrósio.





And more Brazilian models.... courtesy of Nadine Johnson, the queen of P.R. in NY:

And the models posing with Carlos Junqueira, owner of Espasso where the party took place:

Queen bee Nadine Johnson with Brazilian trendsetter Cacá de Souza,
Valentino's longtime right-hand man

The mag printed three different covers. One features top model Ana Beatriz Barros standing on the helipad of São Paulo's Emiliano hotel (pictured above).
A second cover shows a beefcake standing in the ubiqutous Fasano Rio rooftop pool, which has the advantage of offering the best possible view of Rio's famous "Dois Irmãos" mountains.






There's also a third, limited-editioncover edited by celeb-artist Vik Muniz:



The Born in Brazil issue covers a range of topics, including:

- The discovery of massive offshore
oil reserves

-  2014 World Cup
- 2016 Olympic games
,–  Profiles and portraits of architect Paulo Mendes da
Rocha, the Campana brothers, beachwear queen
Lenny Niemeyer, Ana Beatriz Barros, super chef Alex
Atala, musician and actor Seu Jorge and artist Cildo Meireles
–  Brazil’s richest man Eike Batista talks about earning $2.2m per hour 

–  Renowned Brazilian designers Sergio Rodrigues, Carlos Motta
and Hugo França choose the design stars of tomorrow
–  Shopping Iguatemi opens shop in Brasilia
–  Why Pepsi and Coke are betting big on coconut
water

- Brazilian regional cuisine

There's also a feature on a stunning Rio apartment:



And, of course, some nice Brazilian ass:




Tony Chambers, the editor-in-chief, says “Brazil is the most exciting country on earth and Wallpaper*
was there, en masse, to capture this exceptional country at an extraordinary moment of transition’”.

Here, the official webpage of Wallpaper's Born in Brazil issue.